Learning by Doing

Viticulture (grape-farming) is an apprenticeship based discipline. The poet Gary Snyder said that with one’s education the four years after college are as important as the four year’s during college (paraphrasing). 

Jack in the vineyard

Our intrepid employee Jack Roberts is starting his third season with us—the first year collecting field data for my consulting company, and last year working for Matthiasson Family Vineyards on our tiny farming operation. For years we were too small to justify hiring an employee for the farming. We just didn’t have the cash, so I had to either do it myself, or get a crew in on a Sunday for the big pushes. Our farming and winemaking business is finally getting to the point where we could justify hiring an employee, thus we can now share the journey with Jack.

Since an apprenticeship is truly what’s required, it’s a tough balance between education and work output. There has been a lot of investment, and it’s so exciting and gratifying to see Jack’s proficiency develop. This year he pruned the Michael Mara vineyard in Sonoma, a super rocky and tough site, which makes for complicated pruning, in half the time it took him last year. And I feel that the vines are better pruned. The vines suffered a bit from being practiced on last year, but that’s part of the process. I shudder to think of the vineyards I screwed up while learning the trade of viticulturist—Jack hasn’t yet approached the level of inexperienced blunders that I’ve made—thankfully there haven’t really been any blunders at all.

bud break

So pruning, fixing trellises, operating equipment, fertilizing, killing gophers, spraying vines, racking wine, bottling, crushing grapes, delivering wine, packing jars of jam for the wine club, all these skills are being mastered, and not only making my life easier, but giving a lot of gratification at passing the long tradition of farming along to someone else.

And, our kids are next in line to gain that knowledge. Our son Harry asked me how to prune this winter, so we pruned the fruit trees and blackberries around the house. Next winter it will be the grapes.

Getting the Wine in the Bottle

We started making wine in our garage in 1995. It was always small quantities, and bottling and labeling the wine wasn’t really a big deal.

Our biggest home winemaking project was in 2002. We made a barrel (25 cases) of Napa Valley Pinot Noir and a barrel of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Bottling that wine was a much bigger deal, and I have to say, lots of fun. We had a big party and several friends were put to the hard work of bottling (and drinking) the wine, while Steve and I fed everyone. We called that wine “Chateau Mom and Pop.”

Bottling the MATTHIASSON White Wine

But the whole game changed when we bottled our first vintage of the Matthiasson Red Wine in 2005. This was a bottling of 125 cases of the 2003 vintage. We had to decide on a label design, get the labels printed, choose and order bottles, capsules, and corks. Getting the whole thing coordinated with all of the supplies arriving at the winery at the same time was a huge feat. I was surprised at how hard bottling was the very first time.

We are starting to get ready for our 8^th year of bottling. We’ve increased the amount and number of wines that we bottle, so it still seems like a very complicated process. Now we have 13 different wines to bottle with new labels, new capsules, and new bottles.

bottling the peach wine with the boys -- old school

Yesterday was spent at the printers for the “press check” on a new wine brand that we will be starting (more on that soon). And tomorrow will be sorting through all of the different bottle samples that we ordered..... and it goes on....

The great thing about this business is the finished product. Once all of these wines are in the bottle, we get to drink them! (and so do you!).